NWAltimas

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NWAltimas

North West Altimas


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turkeySandwich
bt2580
6 posters

    DIY Requests...

    bt2580
    bt2580
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    Posts : 402
    Join date : 2008-12-26
    Age : 53
    Location : Skagit Valley, WA

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    Post by bt2580 January 4th 2009, 10:41 pm

    This post is nothing more than a way to REQUEST a DIY. That way if someone is going to do something on their car in the near future, pics and a writeup can be done. Just submit a post with what you are looking for help on.

    BTW, don't feel ashamed to ask about something that you may think is easy. If you do not know how to do it, I guarantee you that other people do not know how to either.

    I have done nearly all of the work on both of my cars myself, or been involved with the process. This includes replacing a QR25DE engine (wife's car).
    turkeySandwich
    turkeySandwich


    Posts : 77
    Join date : 2008-12-28
    Age : 40
    Location : Hillsboro, OR

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    Post by turkeySandwich January 16th 2009, 9:24 am

    Can you give more descriptions on your amp setup in your trunk? I am interested in how you mounted it to the top of your trunk. I want to put my amp there too.

    DIY Requests... Bassforms

    How did you get around the two metal wires that open the trunk?
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    clouderold


    Posts : 207
    Join date : 2008-12-27
    Age : 36
    Location : Tacoma, WA

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    Post by clouderold January 16th 2009, 7:13 pm

    On my front strut brace I feel like it's not on their right. When i'm in reverse it makes a noise, it's a racingline bar.. Is there a different bar for 2.5 and 3.5?? If so, I think my box said 3.5 so I might have the wrong one. Should I have jacked up the car when I put on the brace to let the pressure off the springs?
    bt2580
    bt2580
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    Posts : 402
    Join date : 2008-12-26
    Age : 53
    Location : Skagit Valley, WA

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    Post by bt2580 January 17th 2009, 8:38 am

    clouderold wrote:On my front strut brace I feel like it's not on their right. When i'm in reverse it makes a noise, it's a racingline bar.. Is there a different bar for 2.5 and 3.5?? If so, I think my box said 3.5 so I might have the wrong one. Should I have jacked up the car when I put on the brace to let the pressure off the springs?

    Even if it is a bar for a 3.5, it should work fine on the 2.5 as well.
    The only time you are hearing noise is in reverse? And no, there is no need to jack the car up during the installation.
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    clouderold


    Posts : 207
    Join date : 2008-12-27
    Age : 36
    Location : Tacoma, WA

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    Post by clouderold January 20th 2009, 3:26 am

    bt2580 wrote:
    clouderold wrote:On my front strut brace I feel like it's not on their right. When i'm in reverse it makes a noise, it's a racingline bar.. Is there a different bar for 2.5 and 3.5?? If so, I think my box said 3.5 so I might have the wrong one. Should I have jacked up the car when I put on the brace to let the pressure off the springs?

    Even if it is a bar for a 3.5, it should work fine on the 2.5 as well.
    The only time you are hearing noise is in reverse? And no, there is no need to jack the car up during the installation.

    Cool, yeah only in reverse, it makes a pretty good vibration noise, especially if i'm going up a hill, did it a little before my exhaust but it does it pretty loud now..
    Gene 3.5
    Gene 3.5
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    Post by Gene 3.5 January 20th 2009, 4:38 am

    bt2580 wrote:
    clouderold wrote:On my front strut brace I feel like it's not on their right. When i'm in reverse it makes a noise, it's a racingline bar.. Is there a different bar for 2.5 and 3.5?? If so, I think my box said 3.5 so I might have the wrong one. Should I have jacked up the car when I put on the brace to let the pressure off the springs?

    Even if it is a bar for a 3.5, it should work fine on the 2.5 as well.
    The only time you are hearing noise is in reverse? And no, there is no need to jack the car up during the installation.
    Not required but would help. The point of jacking the car up is to release the stress of the suspension so when you do install the bar and tighten everything down the bar will be "pre-loaded" thus tightening the chassis. Don't worry about the suspension dropping either when you remove the bolts (remember to ONLY remove the exterior bolts and not the single interior bolt on the end of the strut) because it's still connected to the a-arm and can be lifted back into place if it does slip.
    3rdgen2.5s
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    Posts : 49
    Join date : 2009-02-05
    Age : 36
    Location : Yakima, WA

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    Post by 3rdgen2.5s May 28th 2009, 4:13 pm

    Since this is the request area I would like to request a faq write up on how to properly debadge your car. Possibly along with other peoples opinions and experiences.
    shot_calla
    shot_calla
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    Post by shot_calla May 28th 2009, 4:46 pm

    There are a number of debadging videos you can find on youtube, pretty much an universal process.


    Last edited by shot_calla on May 28th 2009, 6:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
    3rdgen2.5s
    3rdgen2.5s


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    Post by 3rdgen2.5s May 28th 2009, 5:19 pm

    Alright thanks I will check some of those out.
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    clouderold


    Posts : 207
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    Location : Tacoma, WA

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    Post by clouderold May 28th 2009, 10:08 pm

    Debadging is a very simple process,

    Get a hair dryer, put it on max heat and put it over the emblem, wait 60 seconds-2 minutes depending on how strong your hairdryer is, and take something like a blockbuster card (or a lot of people use fishing wire too) and shove it underneath the emblem. The hotter you have it the more glue will come off easily in this step. After slowly prying the emblem off (it help to have someone there holding the hairdryer so it doesn't cool down) you'll have probably a fair amount of glue residue. A wax will be the best way to get this off.. Don't be too intimidated, i'm terrible at this kind of thing and I was able to do it.. I had some lines where the emblems were and then did a bit of a wax on it and it's not at all noticeable anymore.

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