The accessory lighting in my car is done a little differently than the other methods that I have seen. Many will just tap the dome light circuit and call it good. If all you are doing is installing a few LEDs, then this CAN work, but puts extra current demand on the dome circuit.
I have also seen the tap done the correct way with a relay installed to power the additional lights, but this is limited to only being able to run while the dome light circuit is on...keyfob, door open.
The way I wired my car gives me much more flexibility with the lights. First of all, I am running 3 different circuits...puddle lighting, foot well lighting, and window strip lighting, and wanted to be able to control them all independently of each other. I also wanted to be able to turn the lights on manually, ie without relying on the dome circuit.
The install shown below allowed me realize the results I desired, and still have some room for expansion. It utilizes a fuse tap, relay, dash mounted LED switch(turns lights on manually, and let's me know they are on so I don't get a ticket for the puddles being on while driving), 5-position fuse block, and 3 rocker switches mounted in the bottom of the lower dash panel out of sight.
SUPPLIES NEEDED
I am sorry to say that I threw out the boxes with the part numbers for many of the pieces that I used, but I will try and research them in the near future.
-18g wire, would recommend multiple colors
-16g wire, about 5 feet
-Blue (16-14g) male & female disconnect terminals
-SPDT Relay, diode suppressed to stop current feedback
-Mini(ATM) fuse tap
-Fuseblock, the one I used is for ATO fuses, but ATM fit and work fine
-3 amp ATM fuses
-10 amp ATM fuses
-Wire protection??? I used split loom to make it all pretty
LET'S GET STARTED
I am going to start at the point of the lower, driver's side dash cover being removed...
-Fuseblock with BCM next to it...Wires for dome light already cut
-Pink/Blk stripe is the constant hot for the dome
-Red is the ground for the dome that is controlled by the BCM
-I dislike quick splice connectors...and use male/female disconnects instead. Male on one side, female on other
-Some little leads I made to attach in between my splice...18g wire
-One completes original circuit, other will attach to relay
-You can fit 2-18g or 16g wires into a blue-16/14 connector
-Tap leads installed
-Pic of the fuse tap and relay I used
-Relay has bracket for hanging, had to enlarge hole
-RELAY WIRING...#'s next to terminals on relay
85-Negative from BCM
86-Positive from BCM
87-Hot wire from fuse panel
87a-Hot wire controlled by dash mounted switch
30-Hot output to fuse block
-Location of relay
-Fuse tap installed with 2 leads attached. One to relay, other going to dash mounted switch
-Black wire with terminal is the ground for the LED switch
-Female disconnect at top of wire loom is the wire returning from the switch to the relay.
-Wires for dash switch in wire loom...made long on purpose
-Blue LED switch that I used in the dash
-The 02-04 2.5 Altis have a blank switch slot next to the dimmer switch
-LED switch installed in dash
-Pic of the fuse block I used, has a nice, snap on cover
-Fuse block installed on underside of bracket for steering wheel
-I had to daisy chain the power input wires because the fuseblock does not have a common buss bar
-3 amp fuses used for each circuit
-2 open positions for more lights if I desire
-Pic of one of the rocker switches I used
-All 3 rocker switches mounted out of sight. Easy to find by reaching under dash
-Outputs from fuse block go to these switches and then out to the accessory lights
-Notice, no wires hanging at all. They were all carefully routed and put into split loom
THAT'S IT...
I have also seen the tap done the correct way with a relay installed to power the additional lights, but this is limited to only being able to run while the dome light circuit is on...keyfob, door open.
The way I wired my car gives me much more flexibility with the lights. First of all, I am running 3 different circuits...puddle lighting, foot well lighting, and window strip lighting, and wanted to be able to control them all independently of each other. I also wanted to be able to turn the lights on manually, ie without relying on the dome circuit.
The install shown below allowed me realize the results I desired, and still have some room for expansion. It utilizes a fuse tap, relay, dash mounted LED switch(turns lights on manually, and let's me know they are on so I don't get a ticket for the puddles being on while driving), 5-position fuse block, and 3 rocker switches mounted in the bottom of the lower dash panel out of sight.
SUPPLIES NEEDED
I am sorry to say that I threw out the boxes with the part numbers for many of the pieces that I used, but I will try and research them in the near future.
-18g wire, would recommend multiple colors
-16g wire, about 5 feet
-Blue (16-14g) male & female disconnect terminals
-SPDT Relay, diode suppressed to stop current feedback
-Mini(ATM) fuse tap
-Fuseblock, the one I used is for ATO fuses, but ATM fit and work fine
-3 amp ATM fuses
-10 amp ATM fuses
-Wire protection??? I used split loom to make it all pretty
LET'S GET STARTED
I am going to start at the point of the lower, driver's side dash cover being removed...
-Fuseblock with BCM next to it...Wires for dome light already cut
-Pink/Blk stripe is the constant hot for the dome
-Red is the ground for the dome that is controlled by the BCM
-I dislike quick splice connectors...and use male/female disconnects instead. Male on one side, female on other
-Some little leads I made to attach in between my splice...18g wire
-One completes original circuit, other will attach to relay
-You can fit 2-18g or 16g wires into a blue-16/14 connector
-Tap leads installed
-Pic of the fuse tap and relay I used
-Relay has bracket for hanging, had to enlarge hole
-RELAY WIRING...#'s next to terminals on relay
85-Negative from BCM
86-Positive from BCM
87-Hot wire from fuse panel
87a-Hot wire controlled by dash mounted switch
30-Hot output to fuse block
-Location of relay
-Fuse tap installed with 2 leads attached. One to relay, other going to dash mounted switch
-Black wire with terminal is the ground for the LED switch
-Female disconnect at top of wire loom is the wire returning from the switch to the relay.
-Wires for dash switch in wire loom...made long on purpose
-Blue LED switch that I used in the dash
-The 02-04 2.5 Altis have a blank switch slot next to the dimmer switch
-LED switch installed in dash
-Pic of the fuse block I used, has a nice, snap on cover
-Fuse block installed on underside of bracket for steering wheel
-I had to daisy chain the power input wires because the fuseblock does not have a common buss bar
-3 amp fuses used for each circuit
-2 open positions for more lights if I desire
-Pic of one of the rocker switches I used
-All 3 rocker switches mounted out of sight. Easy to find by reaching under dash
-Outputs from fuse block go to these switches and then out to the accessory lights
-Notice, no wires hanging at all. They were all carefully routed and put into split loom
THAT'S IT...